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Twisted Sash Hat – Crafting with Corona VII

I LOVE small projects that can be made with one hank of yarn. This one was particularly pleasant. The hat is knitted entirely in ribbing which make for a nice snug fit regardless of slight differences in head circumference. The sash is knitted by picking up stitches on the side of the hat. Afterwards it is twisted and secured with a button. It sits very nicely and comfortably. Even without the sash, this will be a winner.

If no model is available, a big bottle, upside down on top of my mannequin will have to do! This was my husband’s creativity when I couldn’t think of any way to photograph this nicely.

Requirements

  • 100 g Fingering weight yarn (±400 m / 100 g)
  • 3.5 mm circular knitting needles
  • 1 decorative button
  • wool needle

Abbreviations

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • k2tog – knit two together
  • k2tog-bl – knit two together through the back loops
  • p2tog – purl two together
  • pm – place marker
  • rep – repeat
  • slk – slip the next stitch knit-wise

Pattern

Cast on 120 sts, join to knit in the round, use a marker to indicate the start and end of each round.

Rnd 1:       
*k1, p1, rep from * to end of round.

Repeat rnd 1, 49 times more – 50 rounds.

Rnd 51:     
*continue in single rib for 15 sts, pm, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 52:     
*k2tog-bl, continue in single rib up to m, p2tog, continue single rib up to m, rep from * to end of rnd

Repeat round 52 until you have 3 sts between two markers – 24 sts in total.

Cut a long tail. With a wool needles, thread the tail twice through all the stitches, pull it tight to close the opening and weave away the tail on the inside.

Twisted Sash:

Pick up stitches along on of the ribbing ladders, from row 10 up to row 39 – 30 stitches in total.

Row 1:
slk1, k until 1 st remains, p1

Repeat row 1 until the sash is 65 cm long. Then shape it as follows:

Row 1:
slk1, k2tog-bl, k until 3 sts remain, k2tog, p1

Repeat row 1 until you have only 4 sts left, cast off.

Twist the sash 5 times and secure it on top of the start of the sash with a decorative button.

Afrikaanse Weergawe

Klein projekte wat met een string jaarn gemaak kan word, is vir my heerlik. Ek het hierdie een besonder baie geniet. Die hoed word regdeur in rifsteek gebrei, wat help dat dit verskillende kopgroottes steeds gerieflik pas. Die band word gebrei deur steke langs die kant van die hoed op te tel. Draai dit dan soos ‘n koeksister en werk met die knoop vas. Dit sit lekker knus en gemaklik. Selfs sonder die band is hierdie hoed ‘n wenner.

Benodigdhede

  • 100 g sokkiejaarn (±400 m / 100 g)
  • 3.5 mm sirkelbreinaalde
  • 1 dekoratiewe knoop
  • wolnaald

Afkortings

  • r – regs
  • aw – aweregs
  • r2tes – regs 2 tesame
  • r2tes-al – regs 2 tesame deur die agterlusse
  • aw2tes – aweregs 2 tesame
  • her – herhaal
  • gl – glip die volgende steek asof jy dit regs sou brei
  • pm – plaas merker
  • rdte – rondte

Patroon

Stel 120 steke op en heg om in die rondte te brei. Gebruik ‘n steekmerker om die begin en einde van die rondte aan te dui.

Rdte 1:       
*r1, aw1, her van * tot einde.

Herhaal rondte 1 nog 49 keer – 50 rondtes.

Rdte 51:     
*Brei voort in enkelrib vir 15 ste, pm, her van * tot einde.

Rdte 52:
*r2tes, brei voort in enkelrib tot by m, aw2tes, brei voort in enkelrib tot by m, her van * tot einde.

Herhaal rondte 52 totdat jy 3 steke tussen 2 merkers het – 24 steke in totaal.

Knip ‘n lang stert. Ryg die stert twee keer deur al die steke, trek die gaatjie toe en werk die stert aan die binnekant weg.

Gedraaide band

Tel steke op teen een van die ‘leertjies’ van die rifsteek, vanaf ry 10 tot by ry 39 – 30 steke in totaal – sien foto bo.

Ry 1:
gl1, r tot 1 st oorbly, aw1

Herhaal ry 1 totdat die band 65 cm lank is. Vorm dan soos volg:

Ry 1:
gl1, r2tes-al, r tot 3 ste oorbly, r2tes, p1.

Herhaal ry 1 totdat daar vier steke oor is, heg af.

Draai die band vyf keer en gebruik die knoop om dit bo-op die begin van die band vas te werk.

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The Yarn Queen Hat – Crafting with Corona VI

The editor of the Afrikaans magazine I design for, requested a poofy hat. When I sent a photo of myself wearing the hat to my testers, one person said the hat looked like a crown. When I modelled the hat on Facebook in a life video, Heidi Wahl also said it looks like a crown and called me The Yarn Queen. So there is a hat that will make you feel like the yarn queen!

The lovely Patricia from Malawi.

Requirements

  • ± 400 m DK (±200 m / 100 g)
  • 4.00 mm crochet hook (use a smaller hook than usual to give the hat firmer shape)

Abbreviations

  • ch – chain stitch
  • dc – double crochet
  • foll – following
  • fpdc – front post double crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • rep – repeat
  • rnd – round
  • sk – skip
  • ss – slip stitch
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • tdc – twisted double crochet (starting dc)
  • tog – together

Pattern

Start with a double magic loop. Crochet round 1 in the circle before closing.

Round 1:        
tdc 1, dc 14, ss in the tdc to close the round (= 15 sts).

Round 2:        
tdc 1, fpdc 1 around the same st, *dc 1, fpdc 1 around the same st, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 30 sts).

Round 3:        
tdc 1, dc 1 in the same st, fpdc 1, *dc 2 in foll st, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 45 sts).

Round 4:        
tdc 1, dc 1 in the same st, dc 1, fpdc 1, *dc 2 in foll st, dc 1, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 60 sts).

Round 5:        
tdc 1, fpdc 1, *dc 1, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 60 sts).

Round 6:        

tdc 1, dc 1 in the same st, fpdc 1, dc 1, fpdc 1, *dc 2 in foll st, fpdc 1, dc 1, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 75 sts).

Round 7:        
tdc 1, dc 1, fpdc 1, dc 2 in foll st, fpdc 1, *dc 2, fpdc 1, dc 2 in foll st, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 90 sts).

Round 8:        
tdc 1, dc 1 in the same st, dc 1, fpdc 1, dc 2, fpdc 1, *dc 2 in foll st, dc 1, fpdc 1, dc 2, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 105 sts).

Round 9:        
tdc 1, dc 2, fpdc 1, dc 2 in foll st, dc 1, fpdc 1, *dc 3, fpdc 1, dc 2 in foll st, dc 1, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 120 sts).

Round 10:      
tdc 1, dc 2 in foll st, dc 1, fpdc 1, *dc 1, dc 2 in foll st, dc 1, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 150 sts).

Round 11:      
tdc 1, dc 1 in the same st, dc 3, fpdc 1, *dc 2 in foll st, dc 3, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in tdc to close the round (= 180 sts).

Round 12:      
tdc 1, dc 4, fpdc 1, *dc 5, fpdc 1, rep from * to end (= 180 sts).

Rrepeat round 12 three times, but ss in the stitch AFTER the tdc at the end of round 15.

Round 16:      
tdc 1, dc 3, fpdc 1, *sk 1, dc 4, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in the st AFTER the tdc to close the round (= 150 sts).

Round 17:      
tdc 1, dc 2, fpdc 1, *sk 1, dc 3, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in the st AFTER the tdc to close the round (= 120 sts).

Round 18:      
tdc 1, dc 1, fpdc 1, *sk 1, dc 2, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in the tdc to close the round (= 90 sts).

Round 19:      
tdc 1, dc 1, fpdc 1, *dc 2, fpdc 1, rep from * to end, ss in the tdc to close the round (= 90 sts).

Round 20:      
ch 1 (does not count as st), hdc 1 in the same st, hdc 1 in each st to end, ss in 1st hdc to close the round (= 90 sts).

Round 21:      
as round 20 (= 90 sts).

Try on the hat. If the bottom part fits well, leave out round 22. If the bottom part is too loose, crochet round 22.

Round 22:      
ch 1 (does not count as st), hdc 1 in the same st, hdc 3, hdc2tog, *hdc 4, hdc2tog, rep from * to end, ss in 1st hdc to close the round (= 75 sts).

Round 23:      
ch 1 (does not count as st), hdc 1 in the same st, hdc 1 in each st to end, e/off and close the rnd with an invisible join (= 75 sts).

Weave away all the tails and wear it like a queen!

My patterns are free of charge and free of copyright. If you made and enjoyed this pattern, please consider a small donation via Paypal to hildasteyn@me.com, or use the donate button on the right.

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One Hank Scarf – Crafting with Corona V

This is one for the knitters!

Go do some stash diving and take out 100g of the finest and best sock yarn you have. Why? Because you are worth it, and you deserve it. If this doesn’t make sense to you, read this blog before you continue.

If you want to make a shawl, you will need 200-300 gram depending on the size you want. Simply continue until you have the desired size before you cast off.

Requirements

  • 100 g fingering (200-300 g if you want to make a shawl)
  • 4 mm circular needles
  • 5.5 mm circular needles

Abbreviations

  • inc – increase
  • k – knit
  • kfb – knit into the front and the back of the next stitch (increase)
  • k2tog – knit the next two stitches together
  • p – purl
  • rs – right side
  • slk – slip the next stitch knit-wise
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • yo – yarn over
  • ws – wrong side

Pattern

Using the 4mm needles, cast on 12 sts using any cast on method. Continue to knit with the same needles.

Row 1 (ws):     kfb, (yo, k1) x8 times, kfb, k1, p1 (22 sts)

Row 2 (rs) and every alternate row: slk1, knit to end

Row 3: kfb, (yo, k2tog) x8 times, kfb, k1, k2tog, p1 (23 sts)

Row 4: as row 2.

Row 5: kfb, (yo, k2tog) x8 times, kfb, k till 3 sts remain, k2tog, p1 (1 st inc)

Repeat rows 4-5 until you only have enough yarn to cast off. Use a 5.5mm needle to ensure a loose cast off.

My patterns are free of charge and free of copyright. If you made and enjoyed this pattern, please consider a small donation via Paypal to hildasteyn@me.com, or use the donate button on the right.

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The Serious Slouch – Crafting with Corona IV

Let’s have some fun! Let’s crochet some beanies.

Yesterday while working on my husband’s jacket, I suddenly thought of a matching beanie. And as always, I HAVE TO MAKE IT NOW! It can’t wait. It will drive me insane if I don’t make it. So make it with me!

And while we are at it, I will share some inside information with you to make your life easier.

Now I have to warn you; I did not name this The Serious Slouch for no reason. It is a SERIOUS slouch! If you don’t like such a massive slouch, make the bottom part of the hat shorter than the pattern specifies.

Size

Here is a table I have drawn up. This is a guideline only, but will save you loads of time in future. Measure the head circumference of the person who will wear the beanie; measure just above the ears and over the forehead. This measurement will give you a good indication of the size you need to make. Head circumference is a much better starting point than age, as people differ greatly.

Project Information

  • The beanie is crocheted top down. Due the construction though, there will be a partial seam.
  • Yarn that has some elasticity is a better choice than yarn with no elasticity. Merino is thus a better choice than cotton. Acrylic is normally elastic, but acrylic does not breathe and will cause itching. In my opinion, acrylic is a bad choice for a beanie, especially if the recipient doesn’t have a lot of hair. Acrylic is the worst choice for cancer beanies by the way.

Requirements

  • Yarn suitable for a beanie. You can use any yarn weight. I used 200g African Expressions Harmony (87m / 50g).
  • Crochet hook suitable for the yarn you are going to use. I used a 4.5mm hook.
  • Stitch marker

Abbreviations (US terms)

  • ch – chain
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • m – marker
  • nxt – next
  • pm – place marker in st last made
  • rnd – round
  • sc – single crochet
  • ss – slip-stitch
  • st – stitch

Pattern

Start with a double magic loop and crochet round 1 into the loop before closing it.

Round 1:
sc1, hdc8, do not close the round; we are now going to work in a spiral.

Round 2:
hdc2 in the sc from rnd 1, pm in the 1st hdc made to indicate start and end of each rnd, *hdc2 in 3rd loop of next st, rep from * to end of rnd.

From here on:
No instructions will be given for your marker. When you reach it, remove it, crochet the new stitch and place the marker in the new stitch.
Work in the 3rd loop continuously until the crown is done.

Round 3:
*hdc1 in 3rd loop of next st, hdc2 in 3rd loop of next st, rep from * to end of rnd.

Round 4:
*(hdc1 in 3rd loop of next st) twice, hdc2 in 3rd loop of next st, rep from * to end of rnd.

Round 5:
*(hdc1 in 3rd loop of next st) x3 times, hdc2 in 3rd loop of next st, rep from * to end of rnd.

Round 6:
*(hdc1 in 3rd loop of next st) x4 times, hdc2 in 3rd loop of next st, rep from * to end of rnd.

Round 7:
*(hdc1 in 3rd loop of next st) x5 times, hdc2 in 3rd loop of next st, rep from * to end of rnd.

Round 8:
*(hdc1 in 3rd loop of next st) x6 times, hdc2 in 3rd loop of next st, rep from * to end of rnd.

Carry on in this fashion, increasing the bit between brackets with each round, until your crown = the required crown measurement in the table above.

Then:
Crochet one round with hdc1 in the 3rd loop of each st until 3 sts of the round remain, sc1 in each of the last 3 sts, then, (ss to the next st) x3 times.

Change to a bigger hook just for the chain. Fold the crown double and chain until the length from the start to the end of te chain is one and a half times the hat height specified in the table. I am making the Adult Large with hat height of 20cm. My measurement from the start of the crown to the end of the chain is 30cm (20×1.5). Switch back to the smaller hook.

Decide how broad you want the ribbing to be. For an adult I recommend about 3-4 cm. Measure your chain to see how many stitches that would be.

Start in the second chain from the hook and crochet 1 sc in each chain until you have the desired length of the ribbing, Place a marker in the last sc.

Continue up the chain with 1 hdc in each st until you reach the top. ss to the next st on the crown twice, turn.

Row 1:
Skip both slip-stitches, 1 hdc in each st up to m, rm, sc-bl1, pm, sc-bl1 in each st until 1 st remains, sc1 in the last st (both loops), turn.

Row 2:
ch1 (does not count as st), sc1 in the 1st st (both loops), sc-bl1 in each st up to an including st with m, pm, 1hdc-bl in each st up to top, ss to the next st on the crown twice, turn.

Repeat rows 1-2 around the crown of the hat. Keep an eye on the number of stitches left towards the end. If you do an upward row and there are 2 sts left, ss in both and go back down. End off at the edge. If you do an upward row and there is only 1 st left, ss in that last st and end off. Sew the seam on the inside. You can also use the loop join method in the very last row to avoid the seam.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! Remember to show off your hats in the Ilona Slow Life Creations Group on Facebook. If you share your hat on social media, please include #theseriousslouch.

All my patterns are free of charge and free of copyright. Please support me through a donation via Paypal (button on the right), or become a Patron on my Patreon page (button on the right); this will only cost you $2 per month. All donations go towards the purchasing of new yarn, for more amazing and free patterns.

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Shawl for Rachel – Crafting with Corona III

Covid-19 has changed our world overnight. The result in my house is a lack of yarn to design with! Imagine that! Sure I have stash, but the stuff in my stash is not exactly suitable for projects that will feature in South African magazines, as the yarn is either not readily available in South Africa, or, not available at all, or way too expensive for the average crafter. Regardless of all the reasons why not to use the yarn, I have no other option! To make matters worse, I normally only buy 1 or two hanks, which means my projects will have to smallish for a while.

Well, I had to design a shawl. The yarn I wanted to use for the shawl didn’t make it to me before the lock down started. Luckily one of my testers had enough yarn. I decided to write the pattern only. Unfortunately, right now, my concentration levels are just not on par. I have good days and I have bad days, just like everybody else. But even on good days, I battle. So my math was off and the testers battled to test. I decided to join them and went to my stash to find something that could work. Pfffffft. What a mission.

The only yarn I had that could possibly work, was Pierrot Fancy Yarns, a gift from a special friend. This yarn is manufactured in Japan and it isn’t available in South Africa as far as I know. It is a mix between linen and rami (stinging nettle).

When I started working it up, I really didn’t like it. It feels like twine and it is splitty. You can actually see both those characteristics just be looking at the photo! But boy oh boy – the perseverance was so worth it. Just look at this drape!

Unfortunately, I cannot share this pattern with you as it will be published in a magazine once the lock down has been lifted. As this point in time I choose to see it that way. Right now I don’t want to focus on all the what-ifs and what-nots. I choose to think normality will come again. Eventually.

Stay positive. Please stay positive. And stick to the rules and regulations in place where you are. That is the most important.